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He is co-founder and was senior editor of the ten-year-old magazine The Puritan, one of the country’s premier literary journals (nominated for a National Magazine Award and a regular submitter to Best Canadian Poetry and The Journey Prize). He is one of CBC Books’ Writers to Watch and the winner of a CBC Book Award for Cosmo. 9, 2013) and Feel Good! Look Great! Have a Blast! (Ferno House, 2011, shortlisted for the 2012 bpNichol Chapbook Award). Spencer also wrote the poetry chapbooks Anno Zombie Dance (Emergency Response Unit, 2016), Conservative Majority (Apt. Gordon’s examination of the self in late capitalism is not always optimistic but is, in its humanity, enormously affirming.” And to Broken Pencil, it is “nothing short of unapologetic for an author’s poetry debut in Canadian literature.”
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He is also the author of the poetry collection Cruise Missile Liberals (Nightwood Editions, 2017), one of CBC’s “16 Poetry Books to Watch.” To the Winnipeg Free Press, it showcases a “disturbing, wry intelligence … taut, careful craft.” The Toronto Star writes that it “offers plenty of laughs, but it’s also got heart.” The Globe and Mail claims that it’s “completely submerged in the zany, disturbing thick of it … might be the oddball balm you need.” In a starred review, Quill and Quire comments: “Cruise Missile Liberals is a complex and accomplished first collection from a writer who has honed his voice by listening. Spencer Gordon is the author of the acclaimed short story collection Cosmo (Coach House Books, 2012), called “startling and invigorating” (and “Canada’s Most Underrated Book”) by Quill and Quire, “rare brave” by the National Post, “poignant and hilarious” by This Magazine, “both heartwarming and heartbreaking” by The Winnipeg Review, and “both ridiculous and absolutely perfect” by The Walrus. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice. “I think I just might have the hand for it.”įollow NYT Food on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest. “These are the same recipes that everybody uses in Ethiopia,” Ms. Unable to reliably find the African bird’s eye chiles that go into the spice blend mitmita, she settles for jalapeños if their heat is less nuanced, she makes up for it by recalibrating other seasonings to bring depth. She can’t always get the right shiro (chickpea stew) mix from Ethiopia, so she’ll roast yellow split peas instead. For doro wat, drumsticks are left to loll in a stew of smoky-sweet berbere until they turn incarnadine, then are paired at the last minute with hard-boiled eggs, creamy and meaty at once.ĭessert isn’t historically part of Ethiopian culture, but Benyam offers two from local bakeries: baklava, flaky and not too sweet, and cheesecake with a sour-cream top, as old school and velvety as you could wish. Nubs of beef might be simmered with turmeric, ginger and garlic, to deliver a gentle, lulling warmth, or patted down with awaze, a paste of berbere swirled with tej (Ethiopian honey wine) and tossed swiftly in a pan, barely long enough to soften the edge of heat.
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A welcome heat announces itself in almost every dish, like a sly nudge in the ribs. Vegetables come fresh from the Grassroots Farmers Market, a few blocks away. This is their first joint effort, and already a standout: While the menu is almost identical to those found at other Ethiopian restaurants, the flavors are brighter and the textures more distinct. The siblings - Helina Girma, the chef Marta Malavazi, who helps in the kitchen Miku Girma, the curator and a street artist himself and Beniam Asfaw, a graphic designer and the soft-spoken, unobtrusive host - commute from Midtown, Queens and New Jersey to converge here in upper Harlem. From Invader, a French éminence grise of the graffiti world, there’s a poster inscribed “To Benyam, the best Ethiopian cuisine in NYC.” But the dining room is coolly cosmopolitan, crowded with street art by luminaries such as Meres One (those troublemaking light bulbs) and Korn (his signature bubble letter K). The food here is traditional, beautifully so, unchanged in spirit from the childhood dishes remembered by the restaurant’s owners, four siblings from Addis Ababa, the Ethiopian capital. They look like tethered yellow ghosts, sitting on a shelf behind the counter at Benyam, an Ethiopian restaurant that opened in July in Harlem. The light bulbs are yolk-yellow, painted with black-dot eyes and Edvard Munch-like mouths, alternately anguished, dopey, malevolent and cackling.